Campbell River Museum Blog

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The Campbell River Museum maintains collections and archives from Campbell River’s wide and diverse history, culture and community. For more information about your local Campbell River Museum, call 250-287-3103 or visit www.crmuseum.ca

Transformation of a Town

Posted on July 9, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

Transformation of a Town, the opening of Elk Falls Pulp and Paper Mill in 1952

For many residents of Campbell River, the closing of the Catalyst Pulp and Paper Mill this year marks an historic moment. Symbolic of the changing times in Campbell River, it reminds us of how a village grew into a town due in large part to the influence of the mill and the large numbers of people it employed. It also reminds us of the excitement generated in this small western boom town when the Elk Falls Mill first opened for operations in 1952.

Duncan Bay in 1950, before construction of Mill

Described as ‘a milestone in the development of Campbell River’ the opening of the pulp mill was an influential factor in the new era of economic growth and job stability in a region that had already received a substantial boost when the John Hart Power Station was built. At right is a photo of the opening ceremonies on September 15, 1952, attended by more than 500 people in the mill warehouse.

As many as 1,000 men worked on the twenty one million dollar mill project during peak construction times. In ‘the Edge of Discovery’ we are told that “New investor money poured into the area as hotels, landlords, beer parlours and cafes did a landslide business.”

Premier W. A. C. Bennett said that the Duncan Bay development was ‘free enterprise at its best’.

The Campbell River Courier commemorated the opening of the mill with a special supplement. Included were congratulations from the various local businesses that had benefited from the beginning of the construction of the facility and expected to reap the benefits of being part of a progressive, growing community.

“Advent of the Elk Falls Company had produced a marked change in the spirit of Campbell River”. wrote the editor W.B. McCusker of the Campbell River Courier in the Canadian Pulp and Paper Mill, September 1952 Journal. “Housing is still at a premium, although prices are somewhat more reasonable than during the boom period.”

When Don McIver transferred from Comox Logging to start work at Elk Falls Mill in 1952, he couldn’t find a place to live. Crown Zellerbach (the parent company) had built 26 homes for their key mill employees (see left) like T.B. Hargreaves, the mill manager, who Don remembers as being very sociable and who made a point of getting to know all of the employee’s names. The village, however, was still unable to handle the influx of new employees and initially, a number of fellows including Don, attracted by the steady wages at the mill, commuted from Courtenay until places in Campbell River became available. Although the pay was better in logging (roughly $12 a day instead of the $9.70 per day offered at the mill) work at the mill was steady and less dangerous.

A writer from Victoria (Aug 1953) commented: “Campbell River is becoming essentially a settled place—not just the loggers’ Saturday night town it used to be.” In the same article, A.D. Corker, clerk of the village municipality is quoted as saying: “People are beginning to improve their houses and to build more solidly… Population has leaped to 2600, at least doubling itself in the last few years.”

It was the advent of families that helped change the face of the village as well. There were plans to construct three new elementary schools in 1952, due to the fact that it had become a ‘young folks town’ with the number of children under the age of six comprising 1/6 of the population.

“I arrived to settle in Campbell River after the Pulp Mill had been built (from a letter to Jeanette Taylor).

The company.. moved many of its employees from Ocean Falls to Campbell River. Both economic and social effects (of this) were vital (to the growth of the town). Of course the population grew quickly to man the mill and the necessary services—schools, hospital etc.” Initially, the Elk Falls Mill relied on Ocean Falls to supply its pulp, but the Crown Zellerbach pulp mill at Ocean Falls was small and antiquated compared to the brand new facilities at Campbell River, and once Elk Falls started producing its own pulp, it was destined for expansion, whereas the mill at Ocean Falls was destined for eventual closure.

Families coming from Ocean Falls had enjoyed living in a mill town where there were good facilities like an indoor swimming pool. However, Ocean Falls had few roads and most were constructed of boardwalks. Newcomers from Ocean Falls were quite taken with the opportunity to drive for miles in any direction.

Workers and families also came from the Prairies and mills in other provinces. Chuck Saults, who started at the mill construction site in 1951, had come from Calgary. When mill construction was completed, Chuck was offered a job and eventually worked his way up to foreman of Paper machine #5. Chuck remembers that there was a combination of very experienced employees—those who had come from other mills, and very novice workers. The Mill employed about 220 workers in 1952 and by 1958, after the addition of the Kraft Mill and another paper machine, the number had grown to about 500 employees.

Skip McDonald recalls the buoyancy of Campbell River citizens in the 1950’s and 1960’s and feels it was the busiest time in the history of Campbell River in terms of growth and prosperity. Local business people profited from the continual expansion of the mill and from the presence of contractors and guests of the mill. These short term employees stayed at places like Painter’s Lodge and went fishing while they were here. The town of Campbell River also benefited when the municipal boundaries were extended to include Elk Falls mill in 1964, (previously the boundaries had gone just to the bridge at Hwy19) as taxes from the mill provided a new and vital source of revenue to the town.

Some developments in Campbell River in the 1950’s include:

First grocery franchise (Overwaitea) 1951
United Church 1952
A new Community Hall 1954
Willow Point School and Campbellton School 1954
Village offices moved into larger quarters (old Lourdes Hospital)
Campbell River & District Hospital opened in 1957
Campbell River Museum established, 1958

The Campbell River Museum archives house a wealth of information about early Campbell River, including a library, archival photos and newspaper clippings. Come visit us soon! Archive hours are Tuesday – Friday, 1pm – 4pm or by appointment – 250-287-3103.

Intriguing Yorke Island Re-Visited

Posted on May 25, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

For those interested in Yorke Island and BC’s coastal defence, a book about Yorke Island has just been published. See link below for full story:

In 2004, museum docent Danny Brown (see left, yellow jacket) gave a presentation at the Campbell River Museum on a unique west coast military defence installation, Yorke Island, and later in the year took a group of people there on a tour. The conditions had to be just right for this tour as this tiny island is surrounded by one of the most dangerous stretches of water in Johnstone Strait. Located six kilometres northeast of Sayward, off the northeast coast of Vancouver Island, Yorke Island was considered to be a strategic site during World War II as it commands an exceptional view of the strait. Then, there was another kind of danger lurking in the water; Japanese U-Boats had been sited in the vicinity as early as 1939 and especially after such a U-Boat launched a shell at Estevan Point lighthouse on the west coast of Vancouver Island in 1942, the Canadian military felt it was critical to establish a gunnery post in defence of British Columbia’s west coast.

I recently had the opportunity to visit Yorke Island with outdoor guide and military enthusiast Ross Keller, and one of the most profound impressions the site leaves is of the sheer magnitude of the construction that still remains. While the windows might be missing and some of the paint peeling, these poured concrete edifices look as serviceable today as they must have been during the war years. Yorke Island was occupied from 1939 – 1947, after which some of the portable buildings were taken to Hardwicke Island (about one kilometre away). Prior to that, the only evidence of occupation was a cabin left by an individual who had been there in about 1925.

The island would not have been a hospitable place to reside on as it was missing one crucial resource – fresh water. To resolve this problem, the military had to import enough fresh water to fill a 50,000 gallon (250,000 litre) tank. Each of the men by military standards had to be provided with one gallon of water per day. With 250 men posted there and sometimes as many as 200 construction workers, it was a formidable task to store enough of this precious commodity. In fact, sea water was used to supplement their requirements in places like the toilets.

As a result of Brown’s talk on the island, he met a veteran who had actually been posted on Yorke Island, Gordon Kurton (now deceased) of Powell River. His research also lead him to meet Garry Ogrodnik, manager of the Campbell River Superstore, whose father had been posted to the island, and he provided Brown with a photo of his father in uniform. Other archival photos (see right) were donated to the Museum by the Bishop family , whose father Jack Husted had also been posted to the island.

Isolated as Yorke Island was, it was not a popular post and has been referred to as ‘Little Alcatraz” (Raincoast Place Names, Andrew Scott). Many young men living there, especially those not used to coastal conditions, found the circumstances extremely trying and in Peter Moogk’s book, Vancouver Defended, he relates a few amusing tales of attempted escapes. Not so amusing is the story of a soldier who committed suicide on the boat returning him to spend another stretch of time there.

The island is currently under the protection of BC Parks, and as it is without a dock, is not an easy place to reach. A boat can anchor there, but a kayak or dinghy is required to reach shore, unless you have a landing craft like the Aurora Explorer that can lower its drawbridge and place you safely on the beach. Although the undergrowth and buildings have been well cleaned up by out-of-work foresters through Sayward Futures, a visitor has to be fit enough to climb the steep hill to the top (200ft) in order to properly view the abandoned buildings. For now, it remains even more remote than it did during the war years, which adds in many ways to its intriguing charm.

While the Museum no longer has tours to Yorke Island, there will be historic boat tours beginning July 11 with Discovery Marine Safaris to many of the other Discovery Islands. Call us to find out more! 250-287-3103.

Hume Researches Strathcona History at Museum

Posted on May 6, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

This week, the Campbell River Museum Archives has had a well known visitor. Award winning author and journalist Stephen Hume, who has been a long time staff writer for the Vancouver Sun, is researching the Ellison expedition into Strathcona Provincial Park that is being replicated this July by mountaineer Philip Stone of Quadra Island. Hume will be writing a piece for the Sun about the upcoming Strathcona Centennial Expedition, and was interested in using the resources at the Museum to find out more about the history of Strathcona Provincial Park. In particular, he said he also came to seeing the current photo exhibit of the Ellison expedition that is on display in the Museum temporary gallery until the end of June.

Hume may be a participant in the new expedition, but isn’t certain yet. For now, he can vicariously take the journey as he peruses the wonderful journal kept in the Archives that was written by Harry Johnson, a member of the original Ellison 1910 trek.

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The Days of the Deep Freeze and Local Winter Sports

Posted on February 17, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

Having the Olympics here in BC this winter has everyone thinking about winter sports. While winter sports enthusiasts can visit Mt. Washington or Mt. Cain to partake in snow related activities, there was a time when there was plenty of snow right here at ground level in the Campbell River area.

Granite Bay Winter Scene

With the milder winters we have been experiencing recently, it is hard to believe that it was once cold enough for local lakes, and even salt water to freeze. Susan McEwen recalls the days when Echo Lake (15km west of Campbell River) would freeze over. “I remember about 14 years ago taking my young children to Echo Lake to go ice skating,” she said, “it is such a treat to be able to do things like that outside.”

Pictured here is a photo of skaters at Granite Bay on Quadra Island taken when the salt water actually froze over. A long time ago, it could get very cold in this area. Cecil ‘Cougar’ Smith spent his childhood in the Black Creek area in the early 1900s, and recalled a winter when the temperature remained at 12 degrees F below zero. All the cattle died from the cold and lack of food, and they were unable even to go ice fishing in the frozen lake nearby as they couldn’t hack through the ice that was at least three feet thick.

Before Mt. Washington ski resort opened in 1979, Forbidden Plateau was the place to go downhill skiing (see photo left of John Painter and Beverly McKay 1950). Forbidden Plateau Lodge was built in 1934 by Clinton S. Wood, at the top of the Comox Logging Company abandoned railway grade. Shortly afterwards, Coach Line excursions started taking people there to ski. By 1972, there were two tow lifts and a new chair lift (the only one on Vancouver Island at the time), a rental shop and recreation house. In the late 1970s, Jim Boulding of Strathcona Park Lodge had visions of creating a ski hill on the other side of Strathcona Provincial Park near Buttle Lake, and used to fly friends in by helicopter to enjoy the perfect conditions. However, just when it looked like the project would go through, suddenly there wasn’t enough consistent snowfall to support it, which happened to be the same difficulty faced at Forbidden Plateau.

During winters when snow was plentiful, cross country skiing was a popular family sport. Jessica Madsen remembers going up past General Hill to find skiing spots in the mid 1980s. They would ski near John Hart Dam, or sometimes night ski at the Sequoia Springs golf course on Petersen Road.

Tobogganing was another activity that could be enjoyed at night. Young people had great fun with their wooden toboggans and sleds on the sloping hills of Campbell River in the 1960s before the town was fully developed. “We used to bring Coleman lamps and hang them from the trees at night,” Linda Hogarth told me. “We tobogganed over by where Alder Clinic is today.”

Now it is necessary to go to higher elevations to find snow, and skating is done indoors at local arenas. While the mild weather makes for better driving conditions, there are still those who fondly remember the days when winter sports were right at their doorstep.

The Museum at Campbell River Archives contains a wealth of old photos of true winter weather, and there are several articles about Forbidden Plateau and its history and development in the vertical files. If you can’t find what you are looking for, just ask for help! The archives are open Tuesday to Friday, 1-4pm or by appointment, 250-287-3103.

Railway Logging and a Fascination with Trains.

Posted on February 4, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

Railway logging became an essential part of the logging industry on Vancouver Island from the 1900s right through to the 1950s. It developed out of the need to access stands of timber further inland after the timber closer to shore had already been harvested, and timber was too far away from the coast for horse and oxen to haul it. Initially it was smaller and midsized companies that ventured into railway logging. “Few people realize just how many logging railroads there were. After 1930, it was pretty well just the big outfits that had them, but before that they were all over the coast, with the greatest number on Vancouver Island.” (‘Raincoast Chronicles First Five’, Howard White).

“The late 1920s were truly the boom years of the coastal logging railroads; all along the coast and in a few interior locations, the hills echoed to the sound of the whistles of the locomotives. Many companies were ordering new locomotives and equipment and the manufacturers were producing an expanded range of improved machines to increase the efficiency of the logging railroads.” (‘Logging By Rail, the British Columbia Story’, Robert D. Turner)

International Timber Company in Campbell River had one of the largest logging railroads on Vancouver Island in the 1920s and these the assets were taken over by Elk River Timber Co in 1930. One of Elk River Timber’s major camps was Camp 8, 15km west of Campbell River at Echo Lake. (see map)

Bloedel, Stewart and Welch had a large and very impressive operation at Menzies Bay, and their railways ran from there inland to the forest lands around Campbell Lake. Camp 5, built in 1942 on the shore of Brewster Lake, was a railway logging camp. It housed about 500 people, including 40 families. Going even further inland, (about 45 km west from Menzies Bay) Camp 9 was located on the north shore of Upper Campbell Lake, but this disappeared when the lake was flooded by BC Hydro in 1954.

Some self sufficient camps actually evolved into communities – like Camp 5 at Brewster Lake, Rock Bay and Nimpkish Camp. These more permanent settlements were abandoned once the timber was gone. Woss Camp (between Sayward and Port McNeill) was the last company owned railroad logging camp in British Columbia.

Maintenance on the locomotives in the woods presented many problems to the crews. The responsibility fell to the train crews to bring their equipment into camp. Men took pride in their locomotives and in their ability to maintain them.

The use of trucks as feeders for the railroads in the west coast forests was only just beginning in the late 1920s. By the 1930s, only the larger companies kept trains running, and by 1950, trucks had replaced railroads in most areas. Trains could only operate in valley bottoms, and once the timber there was gone, trucks were needed to haul lumber out of the steeper grades. Truck logging became increasingly popular and this also spelled the demise of camp life, as men could easily commute to Campbell River on the roads built for logging trucks. Although much of the rail lines were pulled up and the bridges dismantled, parts of the line are still visible at Goose Neck Lake and Rock Bay.

Railways and trains still hold great fascination for many, as evidenced by the well attended event the Museum holds every year at the end of January – ‘Tracks & Trains’, put on by the North Island Model Railroaders. ‘Logging By Rail’ is available for purchase in the Museum gift shop, and the Archives contain several good books on railway logging like Ken Drushka’s ‘Working in the Woods’ and ‘Raincoast Chroncles First Five’ by Howard White. Among the archival photo collection are great photos from the days of railway logging, like the one you see here of Spoolie Kusha and Jack Payne.

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Grouse Mask by Campbell River artist Raymond Shaw of Kwakiutl heritage. This stunning mask is carved in yellow cedar with cedar bark decoration. Total dimensions including cedar accents, 20” by 12”…buy it now just in time for Christmas!

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Keep on Rolling!

Posted on January 27, 2010 by Sandra Parrish

Who remembers the distinctive sound of roller skates on the wooden floor of the gymnasium in the old community hall in Campbell River? Or better yet the spectacular Roller Follies?

Long before the days of ice skating the Campbell River Roller Skating Club offered skating classes to the children of Campbell River. Iris Millmore, an experience skater who had won a Bronze medal for roller skating in Britain was instrumental in establishing this club in Campbell River in 1963.

A group of early C.R. Roller Skating club students are featured in this clipping from the C.R. Courier newspaper.

As well as offering lessons to budding skaters the club would hold an annual event to showcase their skating abilities. Known as the “Roller Follies, parents and relatives would fill the bleachers at the hall in anticipation of the performance.

Roller Show Big Hit Here

The annual Roller Follies presented by the Campbell River Skating Club was held last Friday and Saturday nights, with capacity audiences enjoying the two hour show.

With Centennial Year as the theme, skaters paid tribute to each of the provinces, with appropriate numbers and costumes.

Over 100 youngsters participated in the show, and great credit is due to the staff who created a delightful evening of entertainment.

Solos by Mrs. Frankie Millmore, Brenda Millmore, and a skating duet by Cheryl Stapley and Elizabeth McKenize were greatly appreciated by the crowd.

1967 Campbell River Courier newspaper

Although, Iris Millmore left Campbell River in 1967 the club continued until the mid 1970’s. In 1991 club members held a reunion and in recognition of that event a club scrapbook full of newspaper clippings and photographs was put together. This scrapbook along with Iris’s roller skates were recently donated to the Museum & Archives.

Iris Millmore's roller skates recently donated to the Museum.

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Floods in Campbell River, Past and Present

Posted on January 22, 2010 by Museum at Campbell River

In recent weeks, the combination of heavy rainfall, high tides and snowmelt has created fears that we might see flooding, particularly in the Campbellton area, although Oyster River and Oyster Bay have been hard hit in the past too. Just three years ago, a wild storm with high waves caused hydro outages and flooding across the Island Highway at Oyster Bay, closing off the road. While we can still experience some level of flooding, we will likely never see the high levels reached in the past, before BC Hydro harnessed some of the power of the Campbell River.

Before the John Hart Dam was built, areas beside the raging Campbell River could be particularly hard hit by high tides and the rising waters of the river. In 1935 (see photo) and 1939, significant flooding occurred in the Campbellton Flats after snow from a heavy snowfall melted. During the 1939 flood, waters reached the second step of the Quinsam Hotel, and an 80 ft cedar tree rushing down the river almost destroyed the bridge. That same year, there was a washout at the Oyster River and a barn had floated across the road, effectively blocking traffic. Even after the dam was built, Campbell River experienced torrential rains in 1968 that took out two main water lines and this time, the Quinsam Bridge was wiped out.

Although this year the Seawalk was covered with debris after high tides and a recent storm, the rains abated in time to avoid flooding in Campbellton. Even with BC Hydro diverting water from the Upper Campbell into Elk Falls, the Campbell River did not overflow its banks.

If you are looking for information on any past events concerning the Campbell River area, the Archives at the Museum contains a wealth of information in the form of newspaper clippings, photos, videos and books (some resource and some available for lending). Our knowledgeable staff are pleased to help you find what you are looking for. Archive hours are Tuesday to Friday 1-4pm or by appointment – 250-287-3103.

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Roof Collapse Spells Near Disaster New Year’s Eve

Posted on December 23, 2009 by Museum at Campbell River

Fifty years ago, Campbell Riverites were looking forward to attending a New Year’s dance being held at the Campbellton Community Hall. The hall was built by volunteer labour in 1923, but the interior was not actually completed nor equipped with sanitary facilities until November of 1949. In the early hours of the morning of December 31 of that year however, around 3:30 am, the roof and walls collapsed from the weight of the snow, two feet thick, that had been piling up on the roof. Only the two end walls were left standing (see photo). Fortunately, no one was in the building at the time – had it happened during the evening of the dance, there could well have been a number of injuries or even fatalities.

“The loss of the hall is a great blow to residents of the district as it was the only hall in the immediate vicinity large enough to accommodate large size gatherings.” Campbell River Courier January 4, 1950.

The hall (located at the site of the present day Mohawk gas station) was never rebuilt, then was demolished entirely in March of 2000. A new hall was constructed on land donated by the Royal Canadian Legion on 11th Ave and it opened in 1954, with the help of the Kinsmen and Rotary Clubs and several individuals who donated time and effort towards its completion, in an inspired show of community spirit. Incidentally, the unique edge-grained plywood floor that was the centrepiece of this building was salvaged by the Rotary Club and used in the Maritime Heritage Centre. The community hall that we have today was built in its place and completed in 2000.

The Museum Archives has a wonderful collection of books and newsclippings for those doing research on local history. Open 1-4, Tuesday to Friday or by appointment, 250-287-3103. There is no fee, but donations are gratefully accepted.

Dances of the Kwakiutl, from 1951

Gift Shop — By Lawrence Lewis on December 19, 2009 at 2:27 pm | Edit

The potlatch, a ceremonial distribution of property and gifts unique to Northwest Coast peoples, was elaborately developed by the Kwakwaka’wakw – people of the Canadian Pacific Northwest. Their potlatches were often combined with performances by dancing societies, each society having a series of dances that dramatized ancestral interactions with supernatural beings. These beings were portrayed as giving gifts of ceremonial prerogatives such as songs, dances, and names, which became hereditary property.

Below is a magnificent film featuring Pacific Northwest Indian dances of the ancient winter ceremonial handed down among the Kwakiutl (Kwakwaka’wakw) families as their way of keeping history. Beautiful costumes and masks are worn by the dancers in this black and white film.

If you know the origins or history of this film please let us know the details.

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